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The elaborate and laborious Kadwa technique is used to incorporate motifs. In Kadwa weaving, each motif is woven separately as opposed to other Banarasi handloom sarees (also known as "phekwa" or cutwork sarees). In Kadwa sarees, there are no loose threads at the back of the fabric and hence, no cutting is required. Using this technique, many different motifs of different sizes, colours and textures can be woven on the same sari, which is quite difficult to do otherwise. While this takes longer on the handloom, it makes a more robust pattern, which stands out on the fabric.
Tanchoi is a weaving technique that involves a single or double warp and multiple (usually two to five) coloured wefts, often of the same or very close shades. It produces a self-design, which covers the fabric and ensures that there is no float on the back. It is famed for the intricate and small weaving patterns all over the fabric.
Over centuries of its existence, Banarasi weaving has incorporated many classic patterns and design traditions from India's vast and varied regions.
Named after a small town in Maharashtra renowned for this pattern, Paithani sarees were first donned by the region’s royal families. Paithanis are characterized by their rich borders and pallus. Zari is used in the warp to form a golden base on which intricate inlays are made using supplementary colored threads.
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